CHERRY CREEK FASHION — In The Studio with Designer Brooks Luby

Our series Talk Shop is a career and style profile featuring personalities from various industries. This month, Culture & Style Editor ANNIE BLOJ interviews Fashion Designer Brooks Luby at her studio in downtown Denver. Brooks and models Alicia Myers and Susan Zager all wear clothing from Brooks Ltd.

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ESTHER LEE LEACH

MAKEUP: LILLIAN MARSH // FASHION ASSISTANT: JAMIE SACHS

Designer Brooks Luby in Cherry Creek Fashion Magazine

Annie Bloj: Brooks, you are a pioneer in the fashion industry, with a long and iconic career. I’m so happy to get to know you better, find out what inspires you and how you see your career moving forward. You are celebrating 46 years as a fashion designer in the industry this month. That is an incredible career in an industry known for being fickle and having a high turn-over rate. Can you tell our readers what got you interested in fashion initially?

Brooks Luby: No one fully realizes the effect things have on them at an early age. My father taught me the value of a dollar and the respect that strong relationships can build, especially in business. My mother was a master knitter so I was exposed to quality textiles that were handmade while I was still in the womb! At a young age, I gravitated toward couture clothing as an art form and studied it through magazines as well as touching, feeling and looking inside those types of garments. Fashion has always been a passion of mine, and I was destined to find a place somewhere in that world. I experimented with various directions and landed on the design side of things. This brought me to the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and then back to Colorado to ply my trade.

AB: There is a specific aesthetic that one must have to be known for creating one of a kind gowns and looks for special occasions. Is this the avenue of fashion that you’ve always been drawn to?

BL: I love anything fashion, though, to me, couture is the height of imagination, which I adore and study. That means designing one-of-a-kind garments to meet each client's needs, while of course taking into account my perspective on trends that make sense, and classic design elements. As I focus on this core strength, I realize that couture is what makes my heart sing. I think it’s important to show clients that couture doesn’t have to be just gowns or for special occasions; I also design couture garments for everyday wear, such as unique jackets. Right now I’m drawn to this work because clients can get so much use out of their clothes, and feel special every day.

Short Flared Jacket -“Everly” 100% Cotton, Pant - “Grayson” Taffeta

AB: The term ‘Couture’ has been, unfortunately, used as a general term in pop culture for a very long time. Can you explain the difference between real ‘Couture’ and ‘Ready To Wear’?

BL: Indeed, that term gets thrown around a lot. ‘Ready-to-wear’ is clothing that is produced in some kind of quantity, be it 100 of one style or a dozen. Fit is not as specific as in couture, as one is trying to appeal to a wider range of body types. Although both techniques are challenging and require attention to detail, in couture you’re not only fitting a garment to the client’s specific body, but you’re also coming up with an original design altogether that suits the client’s needs and style. I love to feel each textile, and express myself through working directly with a garment, which isn’t done when you are producing a lot of the same thing. Mass production is a fast-paced way of making things. It has its place, though unfortunately, the advent of ‘fast fashion’ has created a lot of waste in our world. Making couture, custom garments are becoming more relevant in today's times. Our industry needs to work on producing less waste. Creating truly special pieces that a client will cherish for a lifetime achieves just that and more. It's elevating apparel to art, rather than just making another commodity. I love how couture challenges me to pay the utmost attention to every detail and to perfect my craft – for instance, by making the inside of the garment as beautiful as the outside.

AB: Do you think that designing your own line, and being open to new ways of connecting with your clients has helped you to stay in business for 46 years?

BL: Yes, I think that it’s always important to try new things and have flexibility in your business model so that you can adapt to changes in the market. Whether it’s RTW, one-of-a-kind, or couture, though, relationships have been the foundation of my business. As a people pleaser, it gives me great joy to work one-on-one with clients over time. I can see the progression of my work through those long standing alliances. To this day, women are still wearing items I made many years ago. My work is inter-generational, my pieces are bespoke, luxury apparel for women of all ages, shapes, and lifestyles. The other wonderful thing about custom and couture design is getting to know the clients’ personalities, lifestyles, and even their insecurities. I take all of these things into account when I create a design for them. I'm still friends with many clients from long ago!

Tulle Dress “Penelope” embroidered zodiac tulle with slip dress

Off shoulder dress “Saffron” Rayon of bamboo/spandex

AB: When you are working with long-term and new clients, how do you begin the process?

BL: When a client is interested in ‘real couture,’ I begin with an idea based on the client’s needs. I have basic prototypes available for clients to try on to give them a sense of my aesthetic. I then sketch the idea, get it approved, drape it and fit it in muslin, and then make it in the final fabric; all along the way, working one-on-one with the client. It gives me joy to be able to honor each woman’s unique body type, by creating a beautiful garment that fits them like a glove. It’s an involved process that takes many hours of dedicated, educated work.

Many people view couture as something unattainable. I'd like to challenge that assumption and show women that even just a single custom jacket can update and transform your wardrobe. Clients need not feel like they have to buy an entire ensemble or an over-the-top ball gown. I make everyday pieces that clients can get a lot of mileage out of.

AB: How has living and working in Denver informed your aesthetic and how have you seen the industry change?

BL: Being a Colorado native has influenced my aesthetic. We are active, and we value versatility and comfort. I edit out all of the noise in the industry and create what I would describe as “functional beauty” in clothing design. I try to keep that ‘real lifestyle’ viewpoint in mind when designing. Also, understanding how a woman’s body works and changes throughout our life cycle, in general, has helped me to perfect my fits.

The industry has had many changes both locally and nationally. We’re able to see what is trending on the runways or on the streets in real-time with the internet. Locally, I’ve seen more small businesses open which help designers to execute their designs – small-scale production facilities, etc. I’m also seeing the concept of sustainability take off on a local level, which makes a lot of sense with our identity as a ‘green’ state.

Designer Brooks in Cherry Creek Fashion Magazine

AB: One of the major trends in the industry is slow fashion, something that you have pioneered without even it existing as a concept until recently. Now that it is becoming more popular when aligned with sustainability, do you find people are more open to taking their time to understand that fit, quality, and technique are important?

BL: First, I think people need to understand exactly what slow fashion is. Slow fashion is about quality instead of quantity—garments that can last years or even a lifetime. Slow fashion is purposeful and intentional. Slow fashion is holistic and considers the whole product lifecycle. I’m glad this concept is starting to gain mainstream awareness, as it does help open up the conversation about the importance of fit, quality, and technique. It’s something people need to keep being educated about though. I was thrilled that the Dior Show at the Denver Art Museum was a huge educational opportunity for people to see exactly what goes into developing a piece of clothing. One has to be patient if they are wanting a special garment; slow fashion takes time, expertise and knowledge of your craft.

AB: You have added Ready to Wear to your offerings, is this another way that you can dress women for every part of their life?

BL: I like to wear quality garments throughout my day, and I know my clients feel the same way, so I continue to create a limited-edition collection of ‘easy-to-wear,’ comfortable clothing – including tops, jumpers and separates. Even these styles are made with “slow fashion” in mind, though, using small-scale, US-based production. This season I am using bold prints that radiate happiness and joy, as I think people need a distraction from the world situation.

I'm also especially interested in creating one-of-a-kind jackets - oversized kimonos in vibrant patterns, cropped bombers, etc. I find that throwing a fabulous jacket on over a simple outfit is a great way to transform can layer one over a minimalist Eileen Fisher dress, for instance, or (gasp!) even your Lululemon and look chic.

On Alicia: White jumpsuit- “Hazel” linen & cotton, Kimono over jumpsuit- “Clementine” 100% Cotton// On Susan: Tye Dye Dress- “Rosemary”-Rayon of bamboo/spandex

AB: How do you stay inspired? I know that burn-out is real (from firsthand experience). How do you incorporate current trends while also staying true to yourself?

BL: Each season tends to inspire the next for me. As one season unfolds, I often am inspired with new ideas – perhaps a particular garment design pops into my mind, or even an accessory. I use that as a starting point for the next season. It all adds up, and so long as I keep editing out the noise, I don’t really get too burnt out.

I pay attention to what’s happening on the runways, but the key is to take the time to sit back, observe, and filter through that noise to come up with a good design. Edit, edit, edit. Fabric technology is always evolving as well. I love challenging myself to explore the techniques needed for these new textile technologies.

AB: Brooks, you are known for being a pioneer of fashion here in Denver, and you certainly have touched the lives of so many here in Colorado. What makes Denver special to you, what do you like to do when you aren’t designing and creating such gorgeous pieces?

BL: I like the outdoors, skiing, walking, biking. I practice yoga and pilates. I am not necessarily super athletic, but health awareness and overall wellness are important to leading a fruitful life. I am excited about all the art, music and performing art venues that are continuously coming to the Rocky Mountain area. I love to learn. In fact, I’m about to take a new class, and be a student instead of a teacher! I look forward to what will come out of it. Of course, we need clothes to wear when we do these things…I’m always thinking about that aspect of life!

AB: Thank you so much for speaking with me, I’ve long been a fan of yours and it was so nice to finally get to hang out with you and pick your brain. I’m so excited to see what is next for you!