Designer Keti McKenna of KetiVani
Culture & Style Editor ANNIE BLOJ interviews designer Keti McKenna about her brand KetiVani. Keti was photographed in her neighborhood of Cherry Creek.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY ESTHER LEE LEACH // CLOTHING BY KETIVANI
Annie Bloj: Keti, it is indeed a very small world. As I was researching your story and your accomplishments, I immediately recognized that we very well could have worked at the same place at the same time! It’s often hard to explain how small the fashion world is; I’m so glad that I was able to get to know you and your story better. Your passion for the fashion industry and drive to articulate your vision is inspiring, and one that I think sheds light on what is often a very mysterious career path.
Keti, you emigrated to New York City from Tbilisi, Georgia, in 1991 with your 5-year-old son and your then-husband. You earned a degree in geophysics while in Tbilisi but came to America with a love of fashion in your heart. What prompted the move, and have you always been interested in fashion?
Keti McKenna: My then-husband was a promising architect and the sculptor in Tbilisi. He worked for the famous artist Zurab Tsereteli. Have you seen the sculpture Saint George and the Atomic Dragon on the grounds of the United Nations in New York? The sculpture was a gift of the Soviet Union in 1990 to commemorate the UN’s 45th anniversary and was created by Zurab Tsereteli and his team. My then-husband was assigned to bring and install smaller versions of this sculpture to various cities in the United States.
This was during the collapse of the Soviet Union, and it was a dark time for Georgia. He decided to seek political asylum in the US during this trip. My son and I were able to join him after 9 months. We arrived at JFK in September of 1991 to seek a better life.
AB: When you arrived in NYC, you realized that you could make your dream of working in fashion a reality. I know personally, that fashion is not as glamorous as it seems. How did you crack into the industry?
KM: It was not easy. I arrived with $100 dollars in my pocket and my then-husband had $500 in savings from working as a sculptor’s assistant on fiberglass ornaments on buildings. As new immigrants, we worked hard to make ends meet. Even though I was Geophysicist in Georgia, I loved fashion and started making my own clothing when I was 14 years old. With my sewing skills, I was able to get a job at local dry cleaners doing alterations after just a week of arriving in New York.
Not long after that, I made a contact with a local boutique owner, Effie, and showed her sketches and samples, and she agreed to take my designs on consignment. The arrangement worked! I couldn’t keep up with the orders so I quit my job at the dry cleaners and started designing and manufacturing plus size clothing for Effie’s Collection full time. I worked 12 hours a day, and I had plenty of ideas, but I struggled with execution and production. I enrolled at the Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and attended classes at night to expand my skill set. I graduated in 1995 with a degree in pattern making and technical design and decided to close my small business and gain experience from working for larger players in the industry.
AB: Technical designers are seen as the “magicians” of the industry. Can you explain the role they play within the team and how integral they are to the fashion cycle?
KM: In a large fashion company tasks are segmented. The creative director comes up with the concept and colors for the season. The designers shop for inspirational samples, then sketch and source fabrics. The technical designers take these somewhat abstract concepts and turn them into a garment! They communicate coordinate with patternmakers, sample makers, factories, and finally approve samples for fit and construction.
At the beginning of my career, I wanted to learn about execution, such as patternmaking and technical design, and then start my own brand since I enjoyed then creative work more than production. However, as I gained more experience over the years, I changed my mind. I actually had more control over the final garment than the designer, who sketched and sat in on the meetings with merchants most of the time. I truly enjoyed the hands-on aspect of my job. Besides, my college mathematics and geometry made me exceptionally good at my job. I advanced fast into managerial positions. I was very well compensative and had a lot more job security than most designers had. This was especially true during the financial crisis in 2008 when many small design companies went out of business.
AB: While you were honing your technical skills, leading teams, and traveling all over the world to work with manufacturers, you always had a creative side, itching to work on your own vision. Were you working on your ideas in tandem?
KM: That is true. I dreamed of having my own brand a lot. I tried to satisfy my creative urges elsewhere, such as designing my jewelry, my furniture, and my own clothing. Also had some private clients. In 2014, I created a whole collection of womenswear inspired by a road trip to Colorado and applied to Project Runway. I didn’t get in that year, but that gave me the inspiration to keep creating and trying.
AB: What brought you to Denver in 2015?
KM: I met my current husband Craig in 2006. He was a successful banking executive and planned to retire early somewhere other than New York City. We came to Colorado in 2014 for a road trip and fell in love with nature and mountains. It reminded me of the Caucasus Mountains back in Georgia. In 2015, Craig had an opportunity to relocate to Denver and we decided to make the change. I sold my beautiful apartment on the Upper Westside, left my position at Joe Fresh, and made the big move.
AB: Since moving here, you have focused on building your brand KetiVani. What does your catchphrase “Fashion with Fit & Function” speak to in terms of your process?
KM: First, I want to explain the name KetiVani. It is originated from my formal name Ketevan. I was named after Ketevan the Martyr, a queen of a part of Eastern Georgia in the 16th Century. She is my inspiration of grace, strength and perseverance. My husband came up with the catchphrase “Fashion with Fit & Function” for me, because he knows me so well. Before I started my business, I thought a lot about how could I compete with so many famous designers and so many different brands. As you know, this business is highly competitive. I didn’t want to create disposable, low quality, inexpensive clothing. I care too much about the environment. Also, my perfectionist nature and technical skills would be wasted. I decided to focus on creating upscale garments that are well constructed and fit perfectly for their use but also have a modern twist and intriguing details.
As an example, I went to a large department store in the Cherry Creek mall known for carrying only luxury brands and tried blazers priced from $375 up to $2500. Most of them were unsatisfactory to me in terms of design, fabric choice, fit and construction. Only Ralph Lauren Purple label had a blazer that was close. I knew I could offer a better fit at a lower price point and with my aesthetics. I am aware that customers look at brand labels when buying upscale clothing and building a brand takes time. I am patient, consistent and determined to grow the KetiVani brand by focusing on fashion with fit and function.
AB: You are deeply involved with the Denver Design Incubator, sharing your unique set of creative and technical skills with students working towards various careers in the fashion industry. What have you learned by sharing your skills?
KM: I was very excited when I found Denver Design Incubator (DDI) and have been volunteering there since 2015. I was a studio director for several years and recently transitioned to be more of an ambassador for DDI while still continuing to serve as a staffer. Being surrounded by industrial sewing machines and getting to know people in the fashion and sewing community here in Denver makes me happy. There are many talented designers and entrepreneurs in Denver. Some need just a little help and guidance on execution, and production on a more commercial scale. I provide consulting and offer various group classes. I also met great home sewers who help me with my small batch local production. We have plenty of talent in Colorado, and I hope to utilize more of it as my business grows.
AB: There’s so much talk about the future of the fashion industry. Retail and fashion are one of the hardest-hit sectors throughout the world due to the pandemic. What do you hope to see come out of these times, and how do you see yourself contributing?
KM: Fashion is an industry that runs on change with new trends, styles offered up every season. To meet those demands, it must keep the supply chain working at full steam. Now with supply chain disruption, the constant change will not be possible, at least for a while. Most manufacturers are severely impacted by canceled or suspended orders and are struggling to pay employees and their suppliers. The best thing to come out of this painful time is the focus on sustainability and making social responsibility a priority. I feel consumers are going to be far more selective with a mindset favoring higher quality garments that last more than one season. To wear a garment many times, you have to love both the design and the fit. This is what KetiVani focuses on.
AB: What does the future look like for you? What are you working on, and what are you excited about right now?
KM: Before COVID, I was on a solid path to grow my brand, I was working on creating a collection of sustainable suits for women. I had all the production details sorted out. I was going to show my suit collection at Denver Fashion Week in April. After we were struck with this terrible pandemic, I made a change. At the peak of the pandemic, I focused on providing people with free face masks and scrub hats. As the initial crisis eased, masks turned into a business. So far, I have produced about two thousand face masks, both for private label clients as well as KetiVani. As the mask demand has slowed, I have shifted more towards developing casual streetwear.
I am excited about offering new KetiVani denim, jacquard, and plaid jackets along with skinny pants and shorts. Garments will be available for sale to individuals on my website in two to three months. I would also like to offer my designs at boutiques nationwide. I want customers to have the opportunity to try on to truly acknowledge the fit and quality.
AB: Keti, thank you so much for sharing your incredible story with Cherry Creek Fashion! Your experiences help illuminate the many facets of the fashion industry. I’m sure that creatives like you will help lead us into a new era of design and a fresh perspective on what a career in fashion can look like.
KetiVani : @keti_vani // KetiVani.com